The first part of the day-by-day route, free to read.
Day 1: Arrival in Dakar
Blaise Diagne International Airport (DSS) sits about 50 km east of the city centre. The journey in takes one to two hours depending on traffic. The official airport bus (Dakar Dem Dikk) runs an air-conditioned express service to Yoff bus station for around 2,500 CFA; from there a taxi to most central neighbourhoods costs another 3,000 to 5,000 CFA. A private taxi from the airport direct to your hotel runs 20,000 to 30,000 CFA and is the least stressful option on arrival, particularly late in the evening. Negotiate before you get in. Using Yango (the local Uber equivalent, works in Dakar) removes the negotiation entirely.
Casa Mara Dakar is in Sicap Amitié 3, a quiet residential area close to the Médina and Plateau but away from the most intense parts of the city. Small pool, rooftop bar, courtyard breakfast, helpful staff. A good base.
Once settled, take a taxi or walk south-west to the Corniche Ouest, the coastal road that runs along the peninsula's Atlantic edge. It is lined with joggers, food stalls, fishermen and the sea breeze that makes Dakar tolerable in the heat of the day. Walk north towards the Mamelles lighthouse area if you have the energy. For a first meal, ask at any local carenderia or sit-down spot for thieboudienne: fish and rice cooked in a tomato broth, eaten from a shared bowl. It is the national dish and this is where it was arguably invented. Wash it down with bissap (cold hibiscus juice) or bouye (baobab fruit juice) rather than water, which should always be bottled.